GUATEMALA (Antigua)

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Fri 5th April  - Guatemala (Antigua, Volcan Pacaya)
Next stop after a gruelling 10 hour overnight bus ride from Flores to Guatemala City and then a 2 hour transfer, we arrived in Antigua, in the week of Semana Santa. This is THE week to be in Antigua as they take Semana Santa (Easter) very seriously here. There are daily processions of purple robed men and boys (we came to fondly refer to them as PPE’s – Purple People Eaters) carrying huge mahogany platforms on their shoulders with depictions of the crucifixion and Virgin Mary.

People come from all over Guatemala and the world to witness the festivities, so we couldn’t believe our luck to get accommodation in a sweet little backpackers called Hotel Del Parque, right off the Parque Central. The atmosphere was amazing with thousands of Mayan women and children creating beautiful flower and corn posies and decorating the roads with pine needles and flower arrangements, only for them to get trampled on by the procession then swept neatly away immediately afterwards!

We had been warned extensively about pickpockets and thieves but were lucky enough to not to have any unpleasant experiences, and in fact everyone was incredibly happy and friendly.

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Antigua is unlike anywhere else in Guatemala – extremely pretty with colonial style buildings dated back 1543 to yet also extremely cosmopolitan and sophisticated. It’s surrounded by three volcanoes;  Volcan Acatenango, Volcan Fuego, Volcan Agua and has subsequently suffered countless earthquakes which have taken their toll on the beautiful churches and basilicas. It reminded us a lot of Trinidad in Cuba, but a lot more prosperous.

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We had one of the best days of our trip on Palm Sunday, as we decided to climb another volcano, Volcan Pacaya, this time an active one! in-between Antigua and Guatemala City. After another incredibly early start (6am, we’ve never been up so early so often in our lives!) we hiked for 2.5 hours up the lower slopes of the volcano, which were thankfully shaded by trees and a cooling breeze. The last hour of the climb gets much tougher as you emerge out of the forest onto the scree fields of old lava that has fallen from the cone. Our guide spoke only Spanish, but we managed to deduce enough to realise that only two weeks before there had been a major eruption and as a result the guide advised us not to ascend right to the crater at the summit.

So of course we completely ignored him and left him sitting on the lower dormant summit, while we literally scrambled to the top through warm lava scree. It was one of the hardest climbs we have ever done as you take one step up and then slide two back. It was well worth it though as the views from the top amidst the steaming sulphurous gases emitting from huge red cracks in the ground were amazing.

Once back on safe ground we headed into Antigua for a delicious BBQ and well deserved cerveza frio and finished just in time to see the main procession go by. We were also chuffed to find a cute little Bagel Barn which served amazing bagels and beer, whilst providing free wireless internet access and films, a bonus after the expensive connections in Belize. The day ended perfectly in a very authentic Antiguan wine bar (my first glass of wine since we’ve been away!!) as the night procession once again went right past our window seat.

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Next stop.......Guatemala's best hotel and Lago De Atitlan....

(Travellers notes: Flores to Antigua via Guatemala City on the overnight bus should cost around Q200 although we were stung for Q275. Accommodation in Antigua was Q150 per night and the trip up the Volcano was Q180. (Q50 = £4). Transfer via minibus down to Lago de Atitlan was Q182, plus lanchero boat ride to La Casa Del Mundo of Q25.)

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