BELIZE (Caye Caulker, Blue Hole)

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Friday 31st March 2006
It’s hard to believe that March is over now and we have been away for almost 9 months already – the old adage that time flies when you’re having fun is certainly true! So, another month another country – we are now in stunning Belize, after a fun packed journey from Tulum in Mexico. We got the bus down to the border and met a couple of Canadian guys, Rob 'n' Ritch, who were on a short ‘vacation’ and latched onto us as we had our trusty copy of Lonely Planet and they couldn’t speak a word of Spanish and basically hadn’t got a clue where they were going! However we soon realised that they were as beneficial to us as they persuaded us to fly from the coastal town of Corozal, just over the border of Belize to Caye Caulker, a tiny island famed for it’s Blue Hole and laid back Caribbean vibe. When we say flying, we don’t mean any old BA city-link type flight, but chartering our own prop plane between the four of us for US$70 each! The alternative would have been to have stayed a night in Corozal then a ferry ride early the next morning to the neighbouring Caye Ambergris, then another ferry ride to Caye Caulker – with all our baggage in sweltering heat…not much of a choice really, especially when ‘Junior’ (see photo) took us to the airport (read dirt track in middle of field) in his 1970’s Cadillac, just run in after it’s 690,000 mile, with the luggage literally hanging out of the open boot/trunk.

The views over the Belizean coast full of mangrove swamps contrasting with azure Caribbean seas and Cayes were well worth the marginal extra cost, and the captain would even have flown us over the Blue hole if he hadn’t already have been late for the return flight home. Things carried on in a bizarre fashion when we were met at the airport by a local taxi – a golf cart! There are no cars at all on the island except one police car and a tractor, so everyone travels around in golf carts or on bicycle – rush hour is total gridlock man J

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Our very own plane

Eeeek!

Leaving the mainland

Caye Ambergris

Caye Caulker international airport!

We made it!

Belize is a little slice of Caribbean paradise sandwiched between Latin American Spanish speaking Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras. Its history is mixed but has basically been colonised by the British, either by pirates or government (what’s the difference?) until it’s recent independence in 1981, which Guatemala still refuses to acknowledge on many of it’s maps. With it’s close proximity to other Caribbean countries such as Jamaica, it’s developed a bizarre mix of reggae culture mixed with Spanish food and a Caribbean dialect of English as it’s first language. You really have to visit to understand it. After a day spent soaking up the sun and cool vibes, and walking the whole 15 mins from one end to another, we finally got round to booking some diving. 

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South island view from Tom's Hotel

Catch of the day

For sale?

Front Street (south)

Best dive shop on the island!!

Front Street

Chill

Rental accommodation

Dusk

Rob and Ritch from Canada

Time to go.....

Belize has the second largest barrier reef in the world after Australia and is renowned world wide for it’s amazing diving, especially the famous Blue Hole. So today we did two dives; Eagle Ray Creek and Cypress Tunnel. Although the sea was incredibly rough as soon as we jumped in the first thing that surprised us was the amazing visibility, and the second was that there was a shark right underneath us! We soon realised that it was a friendly nurse shark though and carried on through beautiful soft corals, gorgonia fans and sponges. We saw numerous turtles and a beautiful Eagle Ray. However the second dive far outshone the first as we descended literally into a school of sharks chasing jacks and divers around the coral canyons. Giant groupers were more intrigued by us than the sharks and kept coming up for a closer look, until we submerged into a 30foot tunnel through the coral. We also saw lobster (out of season now so allowed to swim in peace) and a large green moray eel, plus a couple more leatherback and green turtles. It’s probably one of our top 5 dives, up there with the Cenotes and hopefully the blue hole, which we are doing at 5.30am tomorrow!! 

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Barracuda

Spotted Eagle Ray

Shark!

Nassau Grouper

Open Wide....

(Travellers notes: it’s not cheap here…..optional chartered plane included. Cost of flight USD70 although you need to have strength in numbers as the flight normally only goes to Caye Ambergris. Accommodation varies hugely here on the island, both in cost and quality – not necessarily inter-related! We finally opted for Tom’s Place (no sign of Tom though), at a reasonable 55Bz$ (£17) per night for a large double room with en-suite on the beach benefiting from the refreshing and cooling on-shore breeze. Diving also expensive – prices vary according to the dive site; average dive is about £30 if you go for a package and that’s also after a 10% discount for having our own gear.)

Sanity note for ourselves. We have fallen in love with this place and are seriously considering investing in some property/business here – any investors interested?? J

Sat 1st April - Blue Hole, Belize
Just back from a 3 dive trip out to the world famous Blue Hole on the Lighthouse Reef. Really early start and then a 2 hour boat trip out over the barrier reef towards the dive sites. The Blue Hole was first. We arrived to find only a single other boat on the site and were soon in the water after the dive briefing. This Blue Hole is bigger than the one in Dahab, Egypt, some 300m across and 800m deep. Our dive took us down to approx 40m down under a ledge where you swim through a series of stalactites where we spotted a couple of black tip sharks further down into the gloom. The construction of the Blue Hole is amazing when you consider that it used to be an enormous cave system well above sea level, hence the stalactites and stalagmites. The land then dropped and the roof then fell in creating the hole. On our return to the surface we were surrounded by large groupers and Caribbean angel fish taking a closer look.

The next two dives were close to Half Moon Caye, and were both stunning and we saw numerous sharks, turtles, eagle rays, sting rays, eels, lobster, barracuda and snapper – not to mention the thousands of other Caribbean fish and amazing soft corals.

All in all, life’s a beach at the moment! It’s really hot here (already managed to top the tans back up) but cool enough in the evenings still to get a good nights sleep. We stayed on the island for a week and then decided that since we’re so close to Guatemala that we should do some more exploring…….

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Barrel Sponge

Spotted Moray

Angelfish

Lunch?

Stingray

Sargeant majors

Lobster...safe for now......

Harlequin Shrimp

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